Difference between revisions of "Wiring: Keeping the Mitsubishi Drives Powered when E-Stop"
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==About== | ==About== | ||
− | On some older benders, the Mitsubishi drives power down when E-Stop is pressed. This approach causes the Feed and Rotate axes to | + | On some older benders, the Mitsubishi drives power down when E-Stop is pressed. This approach causes the Feed and Rotate axes to lose the HOME status in the I2T modules when the E-Stop is pressed.<br> |
<br> | <br> | ||
− | + | Since CNC Bender software monitors the home state as a way to predict servo module health, it is necessary to keep the Mitsubishi drivers powered - even when the E-Stop is activated. | |
+ | <br><br> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <table cellpadding="15"> | ||
+ | <tr> | ||
+ | <td>[[image:warning.jpg|100px]]</td> | ||
+ | <td width=300 bgcolor="#f0f0f0"> | ||
+ | <font size=5>[[image:Gear_warning.jpg]] <b>WARNING!</b><br><br></font> | ||
+ | <font size=3>Only experienced electrical technicians should perform what we describe next. | ||
+ | <br><br> | ||
+ | There can be high voltages and currents of electricity flowing through the electrical panel. | ||
+ | </font></td></tr></table> | ||
+ | |||
<br><br> | <br><br> | ||
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<tr> | <tr> | ||
<td width="200"> | <td width="200"> | ||
− | Press the E-Stop, then examine the drives LED screens. If they are blank, then the drives are off, and you will need to perform this wiring change during a CNC Bender upgrade. | + | Set MASTER POWER ON, Press the E-Stop, then examine the drives LED screens. If they are blank, then the drives are off, and you will need to perform this wiring change during a CNC Bender upgrade. |
+ | <br><br> | ||
+ | This drive is off. The screen is black. | ||
</td> | </td> | ||
<td> | <td> | ||
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</table> | </table> | ||
− | ==STEP | + | ==STEP 2: Find Three Wires== |
− | + | Find the three wires entering the top left side of the white fuse buse to the left of the Feed drives.<br><br> | |
− | [[image: | + | [[image:MitsubishiDriveOffAtEStop02.jpg|400px]]<br> |
− | + | ||
− | + | *The wires will be labelled 3L1, 3L2, and 3L3. | |
− | + | *Trace those wires to the M-2 contactor. (Find the other end.)<br> | |
− | [[image: | + | [[image:MitsubishiDriveOffAtEStop03.jpg|400px]]<br> |
− | + | <br> | |
− | ==STEP 3: | + | ==STEP 3: Reroute the Wires== |
− | * | + | *Reroute these three ends to the top of the M-1 contactor. |
− | * | + | *Be sure to place the wires into the proper terminal point (1, 2, or 3). |
− | *If the | + | *If there are other wires in the bottom of the M-2 contactor, then leave them in place. |
− | * | + | *Leave the wires that are in the top of M-1 in place. (Double up the 1L1, 1L2, 1L3 and the three "3" wires.) |
<br> | <br> | ||
− | [[image: | + | [[image:MitsubishiDriveOffAtEStop04.jpg|400px]]<br> |
− | [[image: | + | |
+ | |||
+ | ==STEP 4: TEST== | ||
+ | *Apply power to the bender (at the main breaker switch outside the bender) | ||
+ | *Press the E-Stop | ||
+ | *The drive should stay powered like shown here. (The AL E6 message will flash): | ||
+ | <br> | ||
+ | [[image:MitsubishiDriveOffAtEStop05.jpg|400px]]<br> | ||
+ | <br> | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==Tools/Parts Needed== | ||
+ | <table > | ||
+ | |||
+ | <tr> | ||
+ | <td width=100> | ||
+ | 14 Gauge THHN stranded wire | ||
+ | </td> | ||
+ | <td> | ||
+ | [[image:14awg_thhn_wire.jpg|200px]] | ||
+ | </td> | ||
+ | </tr> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <tr> | ||
+ | <td width=100> | ||
+ | Vinyl Insulate Terminal Pin for 14 gauge wire (See 159-1617 Kobiconn Terminals Pin Blue 16-14 at Mouser.com) | ||
+ | </td> | ||
+ | <td> | ||
+ | [[image:pinterminal.jpg|200px]] | ||
+ | </td> | ||
+ | </tr> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <tr> | ||
+ | <td width=100> | ||
+ | Jumper bar (Automationdirect.com DINnectors DN-82J10) | ||
+ | </td> | ||
+ | <td> | ||
+ | [[image:jumperbar_dn-82J10.jpg|200px]] | ||
+ | </td> | ||
+ | </tr> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <tr> | ||
+ | <td width=100> | ||
+ | Crimper for terminal pins, screw drivers, diagonal cutters for cutting the jumper bar | ||
+ | </td> | ||
+ | <td> | ||
+ | [[image:screwdrivers.jpg|200px]] | ||
+ | </td> | ||
+ | </tr> | ||
+ | |||
+ | </table> | ||
+ | |||
+ | <br><br> | ||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
==Other Pages== | ==Other Pages== |
Latest revision as of 16:58, 10 February 2011
Contents |
About
On some older benders, the Mitsubishi drives power down when E-Stop is pressed. This approach causes the Feed and Rotate axes to lose the HOME status in the I2T modules when the E-Stop is pressed.
Since CNC Bender software monitors the home state as a way to predict servo module health, it is necessary to keep the Mitsubishi drivers powered - even when the E-Stop is activated.
WARNING! |
STEP 1: Check the State of the Drives at E-Stop
Set MASTER POWER ON, Press the E-Stop, then examine the drives LED screens. If they are blank, then the drives are off, and you will need to perform this wiring change during a CNC Bender upgrade.
|
STEP 2: Find Three Wires
Find the three wires entering the top left side of the white fuse buse to the left of the Feed drives.
- The wires will be labelled 3L1, 3L2, and 3L3.
- Trace those wires to the M-2 contactor. (Find the other end.)
STEP 3: Reroute the Wires
- Reroute these three ends to the top of the M-1 contactor.
- Be sure to place the wires into the proper terminal point (1, 2, or 3).
- If there are other wires in the bottom of the M-2 contactor, then leave them in place.
- Leave the wires that are in the top of M-1 in place. (Double up the 1L1, 1L2, 1L3 and the three "3" wires.)
STEP 4: TEST
- Apply power to the bender (at the main breaker switch outside the bender)
- Press the E-Stop
- The drive should stay powered like shown here. (The AL E6 message will flash):
Tools/Parts Needed
14 Gauge THHN stranded wire |
|
Vinyl Insulate Terminal Pin for 14 gauge wire (See 159-1617 Kobiconn Terminals Pin Blue 16-14 at Mouser.com) |
|
Jumper bar (Automationdirect.com DINnectors DN-82J10) |
|
Crimper for terminal pins, screw drivers, diagonal cutters for cutting the jumper bar |
Other Pages
- Back to the CNC Bender Page
- Back to the CNC Bender Technical Notes Page